Words – Tessa Buhrmann / Pics – Tessa Buhrmann / Isibindi Africa
The stillness of the night is broken only by the rhythmic crashing of the waves and the soft shushing of the wind through the dune forest. The sand is cool underfoot, a welcome relief after the day’s heat, as we walk in anticipation along the remote beaches of Maputaland in northern KwaZulu-Natal. Our guide George points to a dark shadow on the dune, we pause in the moonlight as he takes a closer look. It’s a loggerhead turtle, and we’re about to witness one of nature’s most extraordinary events: a sea turtle returning to the same beach she was hatched on, to start the cycle once again — an ancient ritual that has been unfolding on this coastline for millions of years.
A Legacy of Turtle Conservation
The story of sea turtle conservation along the Maputaland coast is one of dedication and vision. It began with Dr George Hughes, a pioneer in turtle research who recognized the urgent need to protect these ancient creatures. His groundbreaking work led to one of the world’s longest-running turtle monitoring programs. Today, KZN Wildlife, together with local rangers and conservationists, continues his legacy by patrolling the beaches every night from November to March to safeguard loggerhead and leatherback turtles during nesting season.
Turtles face relentless threats — overharvesting, oil spills, vehicle traffic on nesting beaches, entanglement in fishing gear and nest flooding. Plastic pollution is especially deadly, as turtles mistake floating debris for jellyfish, their primary prey. Conservation efforts within the iSimangaliso Marine Protected Area are vital in countering these dangers. Every successfully hatched nest is a triumph, a flicker of hope for the future of sea turtles, and for conservation
Witnessing a female turtle laboriously make her way up the beach to dig a nest and deposit her precious cargo is profoundly moving. Each deliberate movement tells a story of millennia of survival, culminating months later in the miraculous emergence of hatchlings scurrying toward the sea — a true testament to nature’s resilience, against all odds.
We’re staying at Kosi Forest Lodge and Thonga Beach Lodge, both nestled within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, (declared South Africa’s first UNESCO heritage Site in 1992), a place where lake, forest, and sea invite exploration and adventure, as well as conservation and community. Though my journey here was inspired by a longing to see sea turtles, I quickly discover that it’s a region that offers so much more.
Kosi Forest Lodge
We arrive at Kosi Forest Lodge, set within a sand forest on the banks of Lake Shengeza, in the midday heat. The shade of the giant Zulu podberry tree is a welcome relief, as is the refreshing drink and chilled face cloth upon arrival.
A sandy path winds through the forest, and at the end, our ‘cabin in the woods’ awaits — a thatched semi-tented structure on stilts, blending seamlessly into the bush. The trees take centre stage, each structure carefully positioned to preserve the canopy. The wake-up call each morning is a delightful bird chorus, with over 420 species recorded in the area.
No visit to Kosi Forest Lodge is complete without a guided walk through the Raffia Palm Forest and an early morning canoe trip on the Sihadla channel.
George, our guide, leads us into the towering cathedral of Kosi palms (also known as the Raphia palm, derived from its botanical name, Raphia australis), their fronds stretching up to 10 meters — the longest in the world. These palms flower only once before dying, which thankfully, takes about forty years. A highlight is spotting a rare palmnut vulture alighting from a fruiting palm; the only fruit-eating vulture in the world. Though once thought to be exclusively vegetarian, they will opportunistically snatch fish from an African fish eagle. George tells us that the forest is a vital resource for the local Thonga people, who use the buoyant palm fronds for hut and raft construction. Deeper into the reserve, we reach the Sihadla channel, where swamp fig, waterberry trees, and mangroves line the banks.
As dawn breaks, we glide silently into the water. Jerome, who guides us for this birding experience, paddles while we juggle cameras and binoculars, quickly ticking off sightings: African jacana, African swamphen, pygmy goose, African darter, squacco heron and white-backed night herons. The haunting call of an African fish eagle echoes through the still air. As the channel widens into Fourth Lake, lilac water lilies float on the glassy surface, reflecting the Kosi palms and the endless shades of green along the shore.
Jerome shares how Kosi Forest Lodge has positively impacted his family and community. The lodge provides much-needed employment in an area where jobs are scarce. Through a partnership between Isibindi Africa Lodges and the uMvumamvubu Development Trust, the Myayiza community benefits from funding for education, healthcare, and infrastructure projects. Local suppliers, from farmers to traditional entertainers, also gain economic opportunities.
With snorkels and a picnic basket, we set off on a 4×4 adventure to the Kosi Mouth. We pause to take in the traditional fish traps in the lake, passed down through generations, a living testimony to Tsonga heritage. The ‘aquarium’, as it’s commonly called, offers snorkellers crystal-clear waters teeming with marine life — we see devil fire fish, angel fish, and even a moray eel.
But it’s the late afternoon drive to Bhanga Nek to search for sea turtles that we’ve been waiting for. The skies are grey, and a storm brews on the horizon. We sign in with the local turtle monitor, Thokozane Shange, one of several young men hired during turtle season to patrol the beaches. We walk briskly, not expecting to see anything in the inclement weather, but fresh tracks tell another story.
George spots a dark shape on the dunes: a loggerhead has finished laying her eggs and is carefully covering them with sand and scattering it to create a decoy site to distract predators. Once done, she turns seaward for her tiring journey back to the surf. Another loggerhead begins to dig, but a flash of lightning disturbs her, sending her back to the waves. We too return briskly to the safety of our vehicle, expecting to be drenched at any moment.
Thonga Beach Lodge
White sandy roads and rolling hills give way to coastal forest-clad dunes and a breathtaking view. As we edge down a steep decline, a sign greets us: “A civilised distance from civilisation” — a perfect description of Thonga Beach Lodge.
Nestled in the coastal dune forest, the lodge offers a luxury beach experience. Thatched eco-suites, designed to resemble traditional Thonga dwellings, blend seamlessly with nature. Some boast ocean views, others are tucked among the trees, all linked by raised wooden walkways.
A sprawling coastal red milkwood shades the al fresco dining area, where we savour a light lunch before exploring the coastal forest. Bird calls echo around us, sunbirds flit through the canopy, and we learn about the medicinal uses of the waterberry tree.
In the afternoon, our guide, Gugulethu, takes us to Lake Sibaya, passing through the local Mabibi community. He is among the 88% of Thonga’s employees from the area. We see the daycare clinic and Mabibi Combined Primary School, with its bright blue and white walls. As part of their commitment to the local community, Thonga Beach Lodge established the Mabibi School Feeding Fund which feeds the children a lunch meal every school day. In addition to this the school is supported by generous gifts from guests, some financial and some through Pack for a Purpose. A recent guest donation of a 4×4 school bus, ensures that 35 of the older children from the community are able to get to the Mlingo High School, without having to endure a 20km walk.
We arrive at Lake Sibaya, South Africa’s largest freshwater lake and a RAMSAR Wetland of International Importance. With 279 recorded bird species and thriving populations of hippo and crocodile, the lake teems with life… I listen as hippos grunt in the distance while sipping a chilled G&T and nibbling roasted corn kernels.
Later that evening we head out for a turtle drive along the beach – Thonga Beach Lodge has a permit that enables this activity, with tides dictating the times. We drive, and drive and drive some more. Just when we’d almost given up hope, there she was: a loggerhead turtle, methodically digging her nest. Not wanting to disturb her, we took the opportunity to stop for cookies and hot chocolate — which had never tasted so good!
A little later, we watch in absolute awe as she begins to lay. Ping-pong-sized eggs plop into the hole, their soft shells ensuring they settle safely into the nest. We observe for about half an hour before deciding to leave her in peace; the laying process could take a while, and she would still need to cover the eggs. Satisfied, we turn toward ‘home,’ but just as we thought the night was over, we come across another loggerhead making her way back to the ocean.
The Maputaland coastline is famed not only for its turtles but also for its wild, untouched beaches. Golden sands stretch endlessly, waves roll in from the deep blue Indian Ocean. Perfect for walks, morning jogs, fat-bike cycling and swims — and, of course, snorkelling. The coral reefs along this protected stretch of are home to thousands of species of tropical fish.
Not being a water baby, I hesitate before donning fins and mask, but soon forget my fears, as the underwater world reveals a kaleidoscope of colour. Brightly coloured fish dart, among the coral, moray eels peer from rocky crevices, a lionfish gives an intimidating display. Shoals of fish glimmer as they dart back and forth, as do colourful parrot fish, electric rays and even an octopus. I’m exhausted, but nothing an icy drink, and the ever-welcome ice cream cart, can’t fix!
As we prepare to leave, I reflect on this extraordinary experience. I came for the turtles, but I leave with so much more: the beauty of lakes, forests and beaches, the magic of marine life, and a deeper understanding of the importance of conservation and community. We were fortunate to witness several loggerhead turtles, but unfortunately the giant leatherback turtles eluded us — giving us the perfect reason to return to this beautiful coastline in the future.
Essentials:
Getting there – Fly SAA to Durban’s King Shaka International Airport, and from there it’s a comfortable 3-4 hour drive
For domestic flights within South Africa, contact South African Airways
A QR code link to SAA https://www.flysaa.com/
Where to Stay – Isibindi Africa Lodges – Kosi Forest Lodge & Thonga Beach Lodge