Words & pics – Tessa Buhrmann

There’s something very special about staying in a national park in an unfenced lodge. The anticipation of what might visit, tinged with a slight sense of apprehension – all unfounded, obviously. Old Drift Lodge, on the banks of the Zambezi, is just such a place. It’s where the old charm of travellers past blends seamlessly with modern luxuries to make each stay memorable.

Having visited before, I know what to expect, yet the ambiance of the main lodge and the sweeping views across the Zambezi still take my breath away. On arrival, I’m promptly whisked away for an afternoon sundowner cruise – a chilled G&T in hand, honking hippos, and basking crocodiles setting the scene.

The tented suites are beautifully appointed and spacious, with an outdoor shower and a gorgeous brass bathtub too – albeit a little chilly to experience this time of year. Dinner is delicious, and the bed incredibly comfortable. I drift off to sleep wondering if I’ll have nocturnal visitors again, like on my previous visit when two elephants decided to slurp half the water out of my splash pool. Getting up to peek at these grey giants, I discovered buffalo grazing on the riverbank too… and if that wasn’t enough, the distant roar of a lion had me firmly rooted in Africa. This time, it’s the low grunts of hippos and the rhythmic call of nightjars that serenade me to sleep.

When you’re on the Zambezi, an early morning sunrise cruise is a must. A steaming cup of Amarula coffee warms me as we head out to greet the dawn. Mist hovers on the glassy water and the sky shifts from inky purple to soft shades of pink and orange. Sunrise never disappoints, nor does the birdlife – African Finfoot, Grey-headed Parrots, and a large flock of White-chested Flycatchers all make an appearance. Old Drift Lodge: scenic, spectacular and always memorable.