Driving through the reserve today, it’s almost impossible to imagine what came before. The rolling hills, thornveld and riverine bush feel whole again – the divisions of fences and fields barely visible.

At the heart of this vision was Rob Le Sueur, who in the late 1990s saw potential in these rolling grasslands and riverine valleys near Ladysmith, where many others saw only depletion. The land, overgrazed and fragmented by decades of farming, held the promise of something more: a restored ecosystem where wildlife could return, and where tourism could create sustainable livelihoods for the surrounding communities.

It was, from the outset, an ambitious undertaking – one that required not only ecological restoration, but a long-term commitment to shared ownership and economic sustainability.

By 2000, multiple farms had been consolidated, fences dropped, and the slow work of renewal began. Indigenous species were reintroduced, habitats restored, and gradually, the rhythms of the wild returned. Today, more than 40 species roam freely here, from lion and elephant to cheetah, rhino and even African wild dog. A quiet testament to what can happen when land is given the chance to recover.

But perhaps the most meaningful part of Nambiti’s story lies not only in its wildlife, but in its people.

Following a successful land claim, ownership was transferred to the Senzo’kuhle Nkos’uNodada Communal Trust, ensuring the community became direct beneficiaries of the reserve’s success – with representation on the board and a meaningful voice in how the reserve is managed and maintained. Through a long-term lease agreement, the land remains protected while generating tangible income – a model that feels both progressive and necessary in the South African context.

This is where the lodges come in – not simply as places to stay, but as the economic heartbeat of the reserve. Each lodge operates independently, purchasing development rights and paying conservation and traversing fees that contribute to the management of the reserve and lease payments to the community. It’s a system that quietly underpins everything: anti-poaching efforts, habitat management, and the ongoing protection of the wildlife that draws visitors here.

The impact is significant. Where once there were only a handful of agricultural jobs, Nambiti now supports more than 300 jobs across conservation and hospitality. From guides and trackers to chefs, housekeeping, spa therapists and management, there is a strong emphasis on employing from within beneficiary communities. Training and skills development create real pathways forward, something that feels both purposeful and lasting.

Beyond direct employment, tourism stimulates local supply chains, transport services and small businesses. The result is a diversified rural economy built around conservation rather than extractive land use – a living example of how land restitution and biodiversity protection can work hand in hand, to the extent that a local taxi owner now drives the Nambiti boundary at night, checking for potential poachers.

I experience this first-hand during our stay at Nambiti Hills,where the understated luxury feels entirely in tune with the landscape. Where the warmth of the welcome says as much about the place as the landscape itself. Each interaction feels genuine – a quiet reminder that tourism here is not abstract, but deeply personal.

The lodge sits lightly on the land, positioned to take in sweeping views across the hills. Its design is calm and considered – clean lines, soft neutrals, vaulted thatch and subtle colonial touches that add a sense of quiet elegance. Glass-wrapped spaces dissolve the boundary between indoors and out, drawing your gaze outward, always back to the bush. The recent redesign by Michele Throssell has refined it beautifully, without losing that essential sense of place.

This modern, yet warm aesthetic continues in our suite, the spacious open-plan design – with free-standing bath – offering views through the wide glass doors to the bushveld beyond. It is a sanctuary away from the busyness of life, the perfect spot to relax with a book, have an afternoon nap or luxuriate with an in-room spa treatment. Absolute bliss.

Our early mornings begin with a familiar ritual: early morning coffee before dawn, the sense of quiet anticipation, and then the roll of the game vehicle as we head out into the reserve. The grasslands glow gold, dewdrops catching the first light, and slowly the bush reveals itself. Elephant move with quiet purpose. Zebra, impala and eland graze across the open plains. Two lionesses cross a rocky koppie with intent – the nearby wildebeest unaware, until a kudu’s sharp alarm call cuts through the stillness.

What makes Nambiti particularly special is its diversity. Open plains give way to dense bush, rocky hillsides and riverine corridors – a shifting landscape that ensures no two drives are ever quite the same. There are moments of adrenaline, where a sighting takes hold completely, and others that invite stillness – the call of a fish eagle, fresh leopard tracks in the dust, the scent of wild sage beneath the tyres, and the expansive landscapes.

Back at the lodge, time seems to slow. Meals are thoughtful and beautifully presented, often enjoyed with uninterrupted views over the valley. Afternoons drift easily into evening, marked by sundowners in the bush as the sky turns to amber and rose. And then, as night settles, the sounds return – the whoop of a hyena, the distant call of a lion, the rhythmic note of a fiery-necked nightjar – reminders that this landscape, once quietened by farming, is alive again.

Nambiti is more than a safari destination. It is a story of restoration – of land, of wildlife, and of community. Through Rob Le Sueur’s vision, and the continued partnership with the community, it has become a place where conservation and upliftment exist side by side.

And perhaps that is what lingers most: the sense that this is not just a wilderness reclaimed, but a future carefully, and consciously, rebuilt. One that I hope to return to, time and again.

The post Nambiti: A Story of Land, Legacy and Livelihoods appeared first on Travel Southern Africa.

This north-to-south journey through Kruger became not just an itinerary, but a tapestry of history, conservation, community, and connection. Kruger is more than a destination. It is a story still unfolding.

Where It All Began: A Legacy of Protection

In 1898, President Paul Kruger proclaimed the Sabie Game Reserve, alarmed that uncontrolled hunting was pushing wildlife toward extinction in the Lowveld. It was a radical act of foresight, protecting animals not for sport, but for posterity. Under the stewardship of James Stevenson-Hamilton and, later, SANParks, that fragile reserve grew into one of the world’s most celebrated protected landscapes. Today, nearly two million hectares of wilderness form the core of what we know as the Kruger National Park – the ecological heart of the Greater Kruger.

Yet this history is not only about wardens and wildlife. It is also about ancient settlements, sacred landscapes and communities whose roots are deeply entwined with this land.

Nowhere is that more evident than in the far north.

Pafuri: Rivers, Baobabs and the Makuleke Story

After entering at Punda Maria Gate, we travelled north to Pafuri – that wild, almost mythical corner of Kruger where the Luvuvhu River curves through fever tree forests and baobabs rise like ancient guardians.

Three marvellous days at Return Africa’s Pafuri Tented Camp immersed us in the Makuleke Contractual National Park, land returned to its rightful custodians in 1998 after forced removals during apartheid. The landscape feels different here. Older. Softer. Wiser. Ochre-tinged mopane groves give way to riverine forest where nyala slip through shadows and elephants move silently toward the water. Dawn is heralded not with lion roars – though they are never far – but with birdsong.

Pafuri is one of South Africa’s premier birding destinations. Pel’s fishing owl, racket-tailed roller, African broadbill, trumpeter hornbill, to name but a few. Even as a casual birder, I found myself scanning treetops with intent, binoculars close at hand.

We explored the ancient archaeological site of Thulamela – a 13th-century stone-walled kingdom perched high above the Luvuvhu River. Walking among its restored walls with Hlahla, our Makuleke guide, we heard stories of trade routes linking this hilltop settlement to Great Zimbabwe and distant Indian Ocean markets. Gold beads and porcelain fragments speak of a sophisticated civilisation long before colonial lines were drawn on maps.

Later, sundowners in the fever tree forest turned the world gold. Another morning, coffee at Lanner Gorge offered sweeping views over the river valley below – eagles soaring above and elephants threading through green ribbons of vegetation.

When the Makuleke people regained their land, they chose conservation over commercial development. Today, tourism revenue supports employment, education and community upliftment. It is a model proving that heritage, wildlife and human wellbeing can coexist – and thrive – together.

Watching elephants cross the river at dawn, it felt as though the very origins of the Kruger story were alive before us.

The Soul of the Park: SANParks Rest Camps

From Pafuri, we began the long meander south, stopping briefly at Crooks Corner, where the Luvuvhu meets the Limpopo near the borders of South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. There is something quietly thrilling about standing at that geographic meeting point.

Then it was down through Punda Maria, Shingwedzi and Olifants, each a SANParks camp with its own personality. These rest camps are the democratic heart of Kruger. Relatively affordable, unpretentious and deeply nostalgic, they offer rondavels, chalets, campsites, restaurants and surprisingly well-stocked shops. Braais smoke at dusk. Children compare wildlife sightings. Retired couples sip coffee overlooking waterholes.

A stop at the Tropic of Capricorn marker felt obligatory. Breakfast at Mopani Camp overlooking Pioneer Dam was a highlight – definitely added to our future stay list. Letaba Camp’s Elephant Environmental Education Centre impressed us enormously, showcasing research and conservation efforts dedicated to Kruger’s iconic giants.

Wildlife sightings unfolded generously: elephants bathing, drinking, mud-wallowing and eating – endlessly eating; a buffalo herd numbering in the hundreds; solitary dagga boys; giraffe, zebra and impala in abundance. No cats initially – until three young male lions appeared as we departed Olifants at sunrise.

The mopane trees were extraordinary – from scrubby shrubs to tall, stately specimens with leaves ranging from burnt orange to golden yellow. My hubby gently asked how many sunset photos one actually needs. The answer, clearly, is always one more.

Behind these camps lies serious conservation work. SANParks’ anti-poaching units patrol tirelessly. Ecologists monitor elephant impacts and predator dynamics. Fire is managed scientifically. Water systems are balanced carefully. Environmental education programmes nurture the next generation of conservationists.

Here, conservation belongs to everyone.

Kruger Untamed: Wilderness Reimagined (pics supplied)

If the rest camps ground you in Kruger’s shared history, Kruger Untamed draws you somewhere far more personal, the quiet, unfiltered presence of the bush itself. This we experienced in abundance as our journey continued at the two Kruger Untamed camps – Satara Plains Camp, followed by Tshokwane River Camp.

At its core, Kruger Untamed feels like a quiet return to how safari should be, uncomplicated, respectful, and deeply connected to the land. Working in close partnership with SANParks, everything is done with a lightness of touch. The camps rise with the winter season and disappear again without a trace, as though they were never there at all. There’s something reassuring in that impermanence, it shifts your mindset. You’re not arriving somewhere built for you; you’re stepping, briefly, into a space that belongs entirely to the wilderness.

What stayed with me most was how intentional it all felt. There’s no excess here, no sense of overindulgence, just thoughtful simplicity. Water is used carefully, power is minimal, and the focus is firmly on experience rather than comfort for comfort’s sake. And yet, you never feel as though you’re going without. Instead, your attention is drawn to what really matters: the feel of the earth underfoot, the stories carried in the sand, the privilege of time spent, being present, in the bush.

It’s also about slowing things down, spending more time walking and learning, which shifts the emphasis entirely. You’re not chasing sightings or ticking off a list; you’re paying attention, asking questions, beginning to understand the rhythm of a place like Kruger in a far more meaningful way. In a landscape where safari can so easily become polished and predictable, Kruger Untamed feels honest. And that, for me, is its greatest luxury.

At Satara Plains Camp, the camp itself felt as though it had simply appeared, canvas tents tucked beneath trees, barely disturbing the surrounding grassland. We made our way to our tented suite, set beneath trees with expansive views of the grassland. Eco-loos, bucket showers, lantern-lit dinners and wonderful food prepared by warm, attentive staff creates an atmosphere that feels both simple and indulgent.

The highlight, though, was the walking.

We woke early, and coffee in hand, I enjoyed the soft morning light before stepping straight into the bush. Walking here is something else entirely. Without the safety of a vehicle, everything feels closer, the senses heightened. You notice the small things – the imprint of hooves in the sand, the way a broken twig tells of something passing in the night, the sudden silence when birds sense movement. It’s not about what you see as much as what you begin to understand.

Seeing giraffe, warthog and elephants on foot shifts your entire perspective. Watching a breeding herd of elephants move slowly through the bush is quietly thrilling, there’s an undeniable surge of adrenaline in their closeness, and yet, in the steady, assured presence of our guides, I wasn’t fearful. Instead, the moment was something far more special: one of complete trust, and absolute awe.

Our experience highlights that walking safaris are less about chasing the Big Five and more about understanding the details – spoor pressed into sand, middens, scat, broken twigs, alarm calls from birds. The bush becomes a living textbook, interpreted by passionate guides.

Back in camp, the simplicity felt quietly indulgent. A bucket shower, heated by a donkey boiler, became less about necessity and more about ritual, what’s been done in the bush for centuries. The smell of the fire, the warmth of the water, the cool air beyond the canvas. Dinner was served under the stars, generous and unexpectedly refined, with laughter shared easily between guests and staff. There’s something about these kinds of places that dissolves formality. One night there felt impossibly short.

Tshokwane River Camp had a different energy altogether. Set along a dry riverbed beneath towering trees, it felt wilder, a little more untamed. The sand was alive with stories – buffalo tracks layered over one another, evidence of a herd that must have moved through in great number. You could almost feel their presence lingering.

I chose to walk again the following morning, drawn back to that slower, more intimate way of being in the bush. There’s a stillness at that hour that settles into you, the kind that stays long after you’ve left. Meanwhile, my hubby headed out on a drive and returned brimming with stories, his version of a “best of five” delivered with much enthusiasm: one secretary bird, ‘two’ many elephants, three cheetah, four lions and five Southern ground hornbills.

But it was the late afternoons that stayed with me most. Once the self-drive vehicles had made their way back to camp, we remained. There’s a shift that happens; the bush seems to exhale as the roads become deserted. The light softens, and you feel, briefly, if only for the evening, that you have Kruger all to yourself. We stopped for sundowners beneath a perfectly chosen tree, sipping gin and tonics as the sun slipped below the horizon. It’s the kind of moment that asks nothing of you except to be present.

Kruger Untamed, for me, wasn’t about luxury in the traditional sense. It was something quieter, more meaningful. Canvas walls, starlit dinners, footsteps on sand. And the rare privilege of experiencing Kruger not just as a place to visit, but as one you move through, slowly and deliberately.

A Bridge Between Past and Present: Kruger Shalati (pics supplied)

From wilderness simplicity to historic indulgence – a night aboard the Kruger Shalati Train on the Bridge felt like stepping into a cinematic dream. There’s something quietly surreal about sleeping on a train that never moves, yet feels so deeply connected to the rhythm of the bush.

Permanently stationed on the old Selati Bridge above the Sabie River, the refurbished carriages are an elegant blend of nostalgia and contemporary luxury. Our glass-walled suite opened the wilderness right into the room; from bed, we watched elephants amble down to drink, their reflections rippling in the water below. The pool, suspended over the river, felt almost improbable – as if you were floating above a world of hippos and crocodiles going about their ancient routines.

Our afternoon game drive delivered a leopard sighting complete with “traffic,” but thanks to our elevated vantage point we watched as she fed on the impala she had hoisted into a tree, later draping herself elegantly along a branch in classic leopard pose.

Sundowners on the high level bridge rivalled the sighting – the echo of baboons, the low chorus of hippos, the distant trumpet of elephants. After the crowds returned to their camps, the bridge felt ours alone. After a restful night, we chose a slow morning, sipping coffee in our suite as the sun rose, then exploring the engineering marvel of the historic steel girders. If only they could speak.

Chef Vusi and his team produced exquisite dishes – sophisticated takes on traditional flavours, beautifully plated. Sommelier Tinashe poured thoughtfully selected wines. Later, Chef introduced us to Mr Philemon in his garden, where fresh beetroot and edible flowers destined for dinner were grown metres from the kitchen. (Read the full story on page 84)

Manager Justice Mutshinya spoke proudly of staff recruited from nearby communities and students receiving hands-on hospitality training. Mzwandile, once in retail, now thrives as a waiter. Student housekeeper Glad posed shyly for a photograph.

Luxury here is layered, on purpose, and with purpose.

Elephant Walk: A Gentle Farewell (pics supplied)

Our journey ended just outside Crocodile Bridge Gate at Elephant Walk Tented Camp – newly opened, not quite finished at the time, but already welcoming guests warmly. Shortly after our arrival, a small herd of elephants crossed the Crocodile River, one of
many sightings during our two-night stay.

The location is ideal: the perfect first stop if entering Kruger from the south, with no stress about racing the gate before closing time – or if you need to leave for home before Kruger’s gates open. Our spacious luxury tent featured double basins with excellent lighting (rarely a given!), generous hanging space, separate loo, plush bed, abundant plug points and both ceiling fan and aircon. Bliss in the Lowveld heat. The deck offered front-row seats to the river’s theatre.

Two daily game drives were included – a treat after many self-drive days. Guide Simon was knowledgeable and attentive, happily stopping for birds and beautiful trees as enthusiastically as for predators. Over two days we saw elephants, giraffe, buffalo, two cheetah brothers and a leopard. A spotted hyena loped through the veld. Southern ground hornbills strutted solemnly. A bateleur eagle tore into what appeared to be a slender mongoose.

Unbeknownst to us, three lions passed along the riverbank during dinner – captured on camera – perhaps following the impala herd we’d glimpsed after dark. A reason to return.

It felt as though we were still in Kruger, yet with the freedom to depart before sunrise if we wished.

The post Kruger National Park – a journey through time, wilderness and community appeared first on Travel Southern Africa.

In this wild corner of southern Africa, where four countries meet and two great rivers flow, the rhythm of life moves to the steady pulse of water. The Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA) is not a single place, but a living landscape – five countries bound together by rivers, wildlife, and shared purpose. And at its heart, the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers tell a story of connection, resilience, and wonder.

These two rivers – mighty in scale, generous in spirit – carve through Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe, shaping ecosystems, nourishing communities, and inviting travellers into a world where adventure meets authenticity. It’s a place that feels both vast and intimate, where borders blur and elephants cross as freely as the wind.

The Chobe River begins its journey in Angola and flows along the northern edge of Botswana, forming a natural border with Namibia’s Zambezi Region (formerly the Caprivi Strip). Its wide floodplains and riverine forests teem with life – elephants by the hundred, buffalo herds, fish eagles calling from tall jackalberry trees.

The river’s moods change with the seasons. In the dry months, it draws wildlife in droves; in the rainy season, its banks swell and shimmer, feeding the land with life. It’s here, along these fertile floodplains, that you’ll find some of Africa’s most memorable safaris – by vehicle, by boat, and even by silent, solar-powered cruises that drift quietly among hippos and crocs.

Further downstream, the Chobe merges with the Zambezi River near the border town of Kazungula, famously known as the African Quadripoint – the only place on Earth where four countries meet. From the sleek lines of the Kazungula Bridge, you can gaze across Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe in one breathtaking sweep.

Below this confluence, the Zambezi grows wide and majestic, flowing past sandbanks and wooded islands before gathering pace toward one of nature’s greatest spectacles – the Victoria Falls, or Mosi-oa-Tunya, “The Smoke that Thunders.” When the Zambezi is in full flood, its roar can be heard for miles, the spray rising like misty curtains over the rainforest.

In the rainy season, the Zambezi’s abundance causes a curious natural phenomenon – the backflow of the Chobe River. Floodwaters surge upstream, reversing its direction until the levels equalise once more. It’s a powerful reminder that these rivers are alive – shifting, breathing, forever intertwined.

Botswana – Where Elephants Rule and the Sun Sets in Gold

There are few sights as moving as watching elephants cross the Chobe River at dusk. The setting sun paints the water in liquid gold as herds wade through the shallows, trunks raised, calves huddled close.

A boat cruise on the Chobe River is an essential experience – whether aboard one of the larger safari boats or a private launch from your lodge. It’s relaxed, unhurried, and perfect for photographers. Birdlife here is astonishing – African skimmers, kingfishers, bee-eaters – and the sunsets, as any local will tell you, are legendary.

For something quieter and more sustainable, try a silent electric safari. The hum of engines gives way to the whispers of the bush – the rustle of grass, the call of a hornbill, the low rumble of elephants in the distance.

If you want to truly immerse yourself, spend a night sleeping under canvas in the wild. With only the thin wall of your tent separating you from the wilderness, it’s both humbling and exhilarating. And for photography lovers, there’s nothing quite like a Pangolin Photo Safari – revolving camera mounts, expert guidance, and the ever-changing theatre of life on the river.

Namibia – River Life and Quiet Moments

Across the water, Namibia’s Zambezi Region feels wonderfully unhurried. Lodges like Ichingo Chobe River Lodge and Serondela Lodge offer intimate escapes on the river’s edge, where mornings begin with bird calls and coffee on your deck, and evenings fade into starlight.

A birding boat cruise is pure joy here – the Kasai Channel alive with jacanas, kingfishers, pratincoles, and storks – and during the dry season, African skimmers. If you’re lucky, you might spot a pair of white-backed night herons tucked into the reeds.

Take the time to connect with local communities too. Whether chatting with your Namibian guide or visiting a nearby village, you’ll gain a deeper understanding of life along the river – the fishing traditions, the resilience, and the warmth of the people who call this region home.

Zambia – Community, Creativity and the Spirit of the Zambezi

Across the bridge in Zambia, the Zambezi slows again, winding gently past villages, forests, and lodges perched above its banks. Here, life feels grounded and generous – a blend of river rhythms, creativity, and community.

At Waterberry Lodge, guests are invited to visit the Tukongote Community Projects, an inspiring example of tourism in action. What began as a preschool has blossomed into a thriving education hub with classrooms, a library, computer lab, adult learning centre, and even a thriving farm – a place of hope and opportunity, powered by passion.

Nearby, Chundukwa River Lodge is a celebration of farm-to-table living. Meals are as colourful as the gardens they come from – fresh, local, beautifully plated. The lodge also offers horseback safaris along the river, where you might ride through open woodlands and finish with a riverside picnic, the Zambezi shimmering in the background.

Join Jollyboys Backpackers on a relaxed and insightful Livingstone town tour, where local guides share the town’s fascinating history, vibrant markets, colonial landmarks, and community projects. It’s a wonderful way to experience the authentic rhythm of daily life in Zambia’s adventure capital – with plenty of local flavour and friendly smiles along the way.

And for a touch of romance, there’s The Royal Livingstone Express – a beautifully restored vintage train that rumbles through the bush to the Victoria Falls Bridge. Dinner is served on crisp linen as the sun dips low and the river roars far below – an experience that lingers long after the journey ends.

Zimbabwe – Adventures by Land, Water and Air

On the Zimbabwean side, the Zambezi continues to impress. At Old Drift Lodge, elephants are regular visitors – often pausing to drink from your private plunge pool as if they own the place (which, truth be told, they do). A sundowner cruise from nearby Tsowa Safari Island is the perfect way to round off the day – G&T in hand, watching the sky shift from fiery orange to deep indigo. Or join The Victorian Safari Company for a classic brunch safari in Zambezi National Park, complete with Persian rugs, folding chairs, and bubbles on ice beside the river.

The Victoria Falls dining scene is every bit as captivating. At Dusty Road, a soulful restaurant in the heart of Chinotimba Township, you’ll savour authentic Zimbabwean dishes served with warmth and flair – from peanut-spiced greens to tender grilled meats – all in a vibrant, art-filled space that celebrates local creativity and community. Then there’s The Boma at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge – a festive feast of African flavours and live entertainment, where drumming, dancing, and storytelling turn dinner into an unforgettable evening beneath the stars.

To step back in time, hop aboard the Bamba Tram for a scenic ride through Zambezi National Park to the historic Victoria Falls Bridge. Stroll across to the Zambian side and take in the sweeping views as your guide shares stories of the bridge’s construction and the early explorers who first mapped this wild region.

And, of course, no visit is complete without standing in the spray of Victoria Falls itself. The experience is pure sensory magic – the thunderous roar, the cool mist, and the ever-present rainbows. For a truly unforgettable perspective, take to the skies on a Flight of Angels helicopter ride and watch the mighty Zambezi curve and tumble into the gorge below – one of those rare moments that stays with you forever.

The Heartbeat of Africa

What makes KAZA so extraordinary isn’t just its scale – though it is vast, spanning over 500,000 square kilometres – it’s the way everything here connects. Rivers feed wetlands, wildlife crosses borders, and people share stories that flow like the rivers, carrying history and hope.

To travel through this region is to witness Africa at its most elemental – wild, generous, and deeply alive. Whether you come for the elephants, the culture, the adventure, or simply to feel the rhythm of the rivers, you’ll find yourself drawn into a story much larger than your own.

Because here, between the Chobe and the Zambezi, life flows – endlessly, beautifully – from one country to the next.

The post Exploring the Heart of KAZA, where two rivers meet appeared first on Travel Southern Africa.

The post Echoes of the Desert – the haunting beauty of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast appeared first on Travel Southern Africa.

Pics – Tessa Buhrmann / Clint Parsons / Madikwe Safari Lodge

Madikwe Game Reserve, established in 1991, is one of South Africa’s largest game reserves, covering 75,000 hectares (750 km²). This malaria-free reserve offers an excellent chance to see Africa’s Big Five — lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and buffalo — so named because they were historically the hardest and most dangerous to hunt on foot.

Madikwe is a remarkable conservation success story. Once an expanse of overgrazed farmland, the land was transformed into a thriving wildlife haven through one of Africa’s largest rewilding projects. In the early 1990s, the South African government initiated Operation Phoenix, a groundbreaking conservation effort that saw the reintroduction of more than 8,000 animals, including elephants, lions, cheetahs, and African wild dogs. Today, Madikwe spans over 75,000 hectares, offering a sanctuary not just for wildlife but also for local communities that benefit from eco-tourism and conservation initiatives.

After a hearty breakfast, we transfer to Madikwe Safari Lodge, where we’re welcomed with lemongrass-scented cloths, chilled drinks, and warm smiles. We stay at Kopano, a boutique-style lodge nestled against a rocky koppie surrounded by bushveld.

This intimate retreat lives up to its name with just four suites — ‘kopano’ means ‘small gathering’ in Setswana. I step into my suite; it’s a haven of understated luxury and the vast bed draped in crisp white linen dominates the room. I walk through the glass doors onto my private deck, complete with a plunge pool, perfect for cooling off in the afternoon heat. It feels as though this little piece of the African bush was reserved just for me — a refuge from the busyness of life, where time slows, and life-work balance is returned.

The main lodge, elegantly designed with earthy tones and natural textures, blends seamlessly into the landscape. The main area is open plan, leading onto an expansive deck, beyond which is a fire pit overlooking a waterhole and the wilderness beyond. Ideal for viewing the parade of wildlife that comes to drink.

We visit Lelapa Lodge, the family-friendly section of Madikwe Safari Lodge. The main pool at Lelapa is a green oasis, perfect for sunbathing, sipping cocktails, and watching elephants drink and wallow in the waterhole it overlooks. A small horizontal electric fence separates us from the elephants just a few meters away, offering an unforgettable front-row seat to this incredible spectacle.

Our game drives with guide Ryan are both fun and informative. We quickly spot more elephants, zebras, giraffes, and two male lions, “they’re brothers,” Ryan tells us. We watch in awe as a cheetah mother calls for her five cubs. They emerge from the bush, crossing the road right in front of us. Later that afternoon we come across a crash of white rhino, their size and bulk defying their vulnerability. How can anyone even consider poaching these magnificent animals, for what is just keratin?

I love the coffee and sundowner stops, where we stretch our legs and spot animal tracks — from huge elephant prints to the tiny spoor of a steenbok. One evening, a brown hyena wanders past as we sip our G&Ts. But it’s at night, when the spotlight comes on, that the magic happens. Ryan spots a herd of elephants; they amble past, first one, then another, their grey bodies gleaming in the moonlight. Big ones and little ones. Some curious, most just lumbering along. I realize I’ve been holding my breath in wonder — the perfect end to our Madikwe safari.

The post Something for everyone at Madikwe Game Reserve appeared first on Travel Southern Africa.

Words – Tessa Buhrmann

Pics – Tessa Buhrmann / Mashatu Game Reserve

Located in Botswana’s Northern Tuli Game Reserve, Mashatu Game Reserve is often called the ‘Land of the Giants’ due to its significant elephant population and the distinctive Mashatu trees that flourish along the rivers. Spanning 42,000 hectares, the reserve offers a mix of open plains, rocky outcrops, and riverine forests—each habitat bringing new opportunities for wildlife sightings.

The vastness of Mashatu is evident from the window of the Cessna 208B Grand Caravan as we fly in. The Limpopo River is lined with a ribbon of riverine forest, and beyond, rocky outcrops and small trees dot the open plains. After clearing immigration, we meet our guides for the transfer game drive to the luxurious Euphorbia Mashatu, our home for the next few nights.

The post Safari in Style at Euphorbia Mashatu appeared first on Travel Southern Africa.

Welcome to Umkumbe Bush Lodge Luxury Tented Camp – the very first tented camp in the Sabie Game Reserve. Nestled in the southern reaches of the world-renowned Sabi Sand, part of the Greater Kruger area, this Big Five reserve offers a truly immersive African bush experience.

Here, nature sets the pace. Wake to the calls of hyenas echoing through the night, watch wildlife wander past your suite, and take in sweeping views of a watering hole and open plains just beyond your doorstep. This family-owned camp offers an intimate and authentic safari experience, where luxury meets the wild.

Our Meru-style tented suites – ranging from Standard to Superior – blend comfort with simplicity. Each suite features essential amenities, an en-suite bathroom, and a private deck where you can unwind while soaking up the view. Relax in our indoor lounge or out on the elevated Treehouse Deck, overlooking two active watering holes where wildlife frequently passes by. Cool off in the pool, grab a drink at the bar, and enjoy the sights and sounds of the bush.

Guests meet in our newly designed dining lounge for delicious breakfasts and lunches – all part of the daily rhythm of life at camp. In the evenings, gather around the fire in our traditional boma for hearty dinners under the stars, often accompanied by local singing and dancing.

Rates include two daily game drives and three wholesome meals – everything you need for a relaxed and unforgettable safari.

Step into our piece of paradise – where comfort, connection, and the call of the wild come together.

The post Umkumbe Bush Lodge – Your Tented Safari Sanctuary in Sabi Sand appeared first on Travel Southern Africa.

Words & pics – Tessa Buhrmann

There’s a point on the long, scenic drive north from Windhoek when the Namibian horizon begins to stretch wider and the air grows tangibly quieter. It’s late afternoon by the time we turn off the long tarred road to Onguma Private Game Reserve, located just outside Etosha National Park, for a night at Onguma Tented Camp before heading deeper into the wild.

Onguma Tented Camp is as much about sophisticated style as it is about earthy connection. With its stylish interiors, rim-flow pool, and views over a busy waterhole, it’s the kind of place that invites you to slow down and savour. We do just that, and after the quintessential safari drink – a chilled G&T – we enjoy a long, lazy evening of five-star dining and wonderful conversation beneath a star-studded sky.

That night, we dine under canvas in the stretch-tent mess area, sharing a hearty meal and stories around the fire. The camp is beautifully still. No Wi-Fi, no mobile signal. Just the hiss of the fire, the occasional call of a nightjar, and the sound of quiet contentment.

As we discover the next morning, a bush walk is not just about the little stuff. We come across a group of giraffe and watch quietly, while soon becoming the watched — they peer at us, ever curious, but without losing their caution. Back on the path, we come across the distinct pug marks of a leopard, still fresh, likely from a female. A few hundred metres further, we find the shallow indentation in the grass where she has curled up to rest. The thought of her watching us silently from the thickets sends a thrill down my spine.

We skirt the thick bushes and head into the long grass. It’s soft to the touch, but as Victor shows us, easily capable of slicing the skin when pulled sharply, something to be mindful of. Walking quietly in single file, our peace is disturbed as a guinea fowl explodes from the undergrowth, and my heart leaps. “Heart-attack bird,” Liberty chuckles.

The post Disconnect, to reconnect…  at Onguma Trails Camp appeared first on Travel Southern Africa.

Words & pics – Tessa Buhrmann

There’s something very special about staying in a national park in an unfenced lodge. The anticipation of what might visit, tinged with a slight sense of apprehension – all unfounded, obviously. Old Drift Lodge, on the banks of the Zambezi, is just such a place. It’s where the old charm of travellers past blends seamlessly with modern luxuries to make each stay memorable.

Having visited before, I know what to expect, yet the ambiance of the main lodge and the sweeping views across the Zambezi still take my breath away. On arrival, I’m promptly whisked away for an afternoon sundowner cruise – a chilled G&T in hand, honking hippos, and basking crocodiles setting the scene.

The tented suites are beautifully appointed and spacious, with an outdoor shower and a gorgeous brass bathtub too – albeit a little chilly to experience this time of year. Dinner is delicious, and the bed incredibly comfortable. I drift off to sleep wondering if I’ll have nocturnal visitors again, like on my previous visit when two elephants decided to slurp half the water out of my splash pool. Getting up to peek at these grey giants, I discovered buffalo grazing on the riverbank too… and if that wasn’t enough, the distant roar of a lion had me firmly rooted in Africa. This time, it’s the low grunts of hippos and the rhythmic call of nightjars that serenade me to sleep.

When you’re on the Zambezi, an early morning sunrise cruise is a must. A steaming cup of Amarula coffee warms me as we head out to greet the dawn. Mist hovers on the glassy water and the sky shifts from inky purple to soft shades of pink and orange. Sunrise never disappoints, nor does the birdlife – African Finfoot, Grey-headed Parrots, and a large flock of White-chested Flycatchers all make an appearance. Old Drift Lodge: scenic, spectacular and always memorable.

The post Nocturnal visitors at Old Drift Lodge – Zimbabwe appeared first on Travel Southern Africa.