Words – Tessa Buhrmann / Pics – Tessa Buhrmann / Clint Parsons / Madikwe Safari Lodge
Madikwe Game Reserve, established in 1991, is one of South
Africa’s largest game reserves, covering 75,000 hectares (750 km²). This
malaria-free reserve offers an excellent chance to see Africa’s Big Five — lion,
leopard, elephant, rhino, and buffalo — so named because they were historically
the hardest and most dangerous to hunt on foot.
Madikwe is a remarkable conservation success story. Once an
expanse of overgrazed farmland, the land was transformed into a thriving
wildlife haven through one of Africa’s largest rewilding projects. In the early
1990s, the South African government initiated Operation Phoenix, a
groundbreaking conservation effort that saw the reintroduction of more than
8,000 animals, including elephants, lions, cheetahs, and African wild dogs.
Today, Madikwe spans over 75,000 hectares, offering a sanctuary not just for
wildlife but also for local communities that benefit from eco-tourism and
conservation initiatives.
Mosetlha Bush Camp & Eco Lodge: Off the Grid and Immersed in Nature
The allure of the African bush is undeniable — it’s a place I love and have visited often. But nothing could have prepared me for the simplicity and authenticity of Mosetlha Bush Camp & Eco Lodge. From the moment I arrived, I felt as though I had stepped back in time, where connection meant more than convenience, and luxury was found in the pleasure of spending time in the bush.
Mosetlha is a small, rustic, unfenced bush camp, in the heart of Madikwe It operates entirely off the grid, with lantern-lit pathways, solar-powered lights, and meals cooked over an open fire. Mod cons include private bathrooms, albeit a bucket shower with the water heated through an old-fashioned wood-fired ‘donkey boiler’ and an eco-friendly ‘bush loo,’ which thankfully isn’t as rustic as it sounds.
On an early morning game drive, we huddle beneath blankets, thankfully it slowly warms up and we begin to shed our layers. We watch zebra and wildebeest graze, a warthog roots through elephant dung, amusing us as it finds tasty undigested seeds and giraffe nonchalantly browse. A pride of lazy lions nap beneath a large marula tree, a few swishing tails and inquiring glances is all the response we get, but we’re thrilled to have this moment to ourselves.
Despite being mid-winter, daytime temperatures soar to nearly 30 degrees Celsius, and the landscape is dry and dusty — the region is in the grips of a terrible drought. At a waterhole, elephants gather, drinking deeply and spraying themselves to cool down. A young elephant huddles close to its mother, while two white rhinos arrive to quench their thirst.
Back at camp, downtime means relaxing in the open-air lounge, flipping through wildlife books, or simply soaking up the tranquillity. The absence of Wi-Fi isn’t a drawback — without distractions, I feel more present, attuned to the bush around me. For those worried about devices, an emergency solar system keeps camera batteries charged.
Our afternoon drive is spent tracking a leopard, but with no luck. From an elevated position, we watch family after family of elephants coming to the dam to drink, wallow, and dust bathe, coating their skin to protect against the sun and to repel insects. After a spectacular sunset and sundowners, we head back. Our guide Jonny switches on the spotlight, scanning for feline eyes. The vehicle slows as he points to an impala kill tangled in a fence. “Leopard,” he says. “It must still be nearby.” His bush knowledge soon reveals a young male leopard hiding beneath a bush. We wait, hoping he’ll retrieve his meal, but he remains hidden.
Dinners at Mosetlha are communal, with guests gathering around a long table to share hearty, home-cooked meals. We sip Amarula by the boma fire, sharing stories beneath a blanket of stars.
My cabin, a raised wooden structure with canvas walls, is simple yet inviting. A comfortable bed, solar lanterns, and the sounds of the bush lull me to sleep. Just after midnight, I am startled by a sound. A rhino grazes beside my cabin and black-backed jackals call nearby. In the distance, a hyena whoops, a nightjar sings, and crickets chirp.
On our final drive, I chat with Jonny over coffee. He tells me that Mosetlha was originally founded as a guide training camp by Chris Lucas. He tells me he was among the first to learn bushcraft, track animals, and understand the intricacies of the wild. Growing up in the area before it was proclaimed a game reserve, he has witnessed its transformation. Mosetlha is more than a lodge; it is a place of learning and deep respect for nature, where the legacy of Chris lingers. Without frills, it reminds me that true luxury is about authenticity, purpose, and memories that endure long after departure.
Luxury in the wild at Madikwe Safari Lodge
After a hearty breakfast, we transfer to Madikwe Safari Lodge, where we’re welcomed with lemongrass-scented cloths, chilled drinks, and warm smiles. We stay at Kopano, a boutique-style lodge nestled against a rocky koppie surrounded by bushveld.
This intimate retreat lives up to its name with just four suites — ‘kopano’ means ‘small gathering’ in Setswana. I step into my suite; it’s a haven of understated luxury and the vast bed draped in crisp white linen dominates the room. I walk through the glass doors onto my private deck, complete with a plunge pool, perfect for cooling off in the afternoon heat. It feels as though this little piece of the African bush was reserved just for me — a refuge from the busyness of life, where time slows, and life-work balance is returned.
The main lodge, elegantly designed with earthy tones and natural textures, blends seamlessly into the landscape. The main area is open plan, leading onto an expansive deck, beyond which is a fire pit overlooking a waterhole and the wilderness beyond. Ideal for viewing the parade of wildlife that comes to drink.
We visit Lelapa Lodge, the family-friendly section of Madikwe Safari Lodge. The main pool at Lelapa is a green oasis, perfect for sunbathing, sipping cocktails, and watching elephants drink and wallow in the waterhole it overlooks. A small horizontal electric fence separates us from the elephants just a few meters away, offering an unforgettable front-row seat to this incredible spectacle.
Our game drives with guide Ryan are both fun and informative. We quickly spot more elephants, zebras, giraffes, and two male lions, “they’re brothers,” Ryan tells us. We watch in awe as a cheetah mother calls for her five cubs. They emerge from the bush, crossing the road right in front of us. Later that afternoon we come across a crash of white rhino, their size and bulk defying their vulnerability. How can anyone even consider poaching these magnificent animals, for what is just keratin?
I love the coffee and sundowner stops, where we stretch our legs and spot animal tracks — from huge elephant prints to the tiny spoor of a steenbok. One evening, a brown hyena wanders past as we sip our G&Ts. But it’s at night, when the spotlight comes on, that the magic happens. Ryan spots a herd of elephants; they amble past, first one, then another, their grey bodies gleaming in the moonlight. Big ones and little ones. Some curious, most just lumbering along. I realize I’ve been holding my breath in wonder — the perfect end to our Madikwe safari.
Essentials:
Getting there – Fly SAA to O.R. Tambo International Airport and then Federal Air directly to Madikwe Game Reserve (daily) https://fedair.com/ (Or a 4-5 hour drive from the airport)
A QR code link to SAA https://www.flysaa.com/
Where to Stay – Mosetlha Bush Camp & Eco Lodge – https://www.thebushcamp.com/
Madikwe Safari Lodge – https://madikwesafarilodge.co.za/