Words – Tessa Buhrmann | Pics – Tessa Buhrmann / supplied
KwaZulu-Natal – andBeyond Phinda Forest Lodge
Stepping into the recently refurbished andBeyond Phinda Forest Lodge had all the feels of somewhere familiar, the same comfort but with a more contemporary edge. The updates have enhanced this already exquisite lodge, but the essence remains unchanged. The same towering trees stand tall around the lodge, the same views, the birdlife is just as abundant, and the same soothing sounds of nature still fill the air.
Our luxurious Forest Suite—a sanctuary of glass and light, is set within the rare and ancient Sand Forest, where trees are draped in lichen and the diminutive suni antelope moves quietly through the underbrush. I take a moment to appreciate the floor-to-ceiling glass walls that invite the forest in.
The decor is a celebration of eco-chic Zulu creativity, blending rich textures, handcrafted details, and a colour palette that that reflects the surrounding landscape. Sliding screen doors allow the night air to drift in, carrying with it the distant whoop of hyenas, the eerie cry of bush babies, and the gentle rustling of leaves.
Morning starts early; birdsong wakes me from my slumber long before the scheduled wake-up call. The day’s game drives holds the promise of incredible sightings—the excitement builds as we head out with Cameron, our guide and tracker, Josiah. We explore the reserve’s diverse habitats—grasslands teeming with zebras, giraffe and wildebeest, wetlands alive with the call of African fish eagles, and dense thickets where black rhinos lurk unseen in the shadows, or perhaps an unseen leopard peers at us through the undergrowth as we drive by.
We watch cheetah brothers as they scan the horizon, for prey as well as potential danger. A huge herd of buffalo grazes their way across the plain and a herd of elephants make their way through the trees, the matriarch leading the way.
A welcome stop midway through the morning drive brings the chance to stretch our legs and enjoy a hot coffee laced with Amarula and homemade crunchie biscuits. I stand beneath a huge Lebombo wattle in this patch of pristine Sand Forest sipping my coffee, a small but special luxury, a moment to simply take it all in before we continue.
After a hearty breakfast back at the lodge guests have the opportunity to visit the Spa, take a dip in the pool or just curl up with a book. Binoculars in hand I choose to sit quietly and watch as birdlife flits through the branches beyond the deck.
High tea precedes the afternoon game drive, which once again, doesn’t disappoint with lions, hyena and white rhino. As the sun begins its descent, we find the perfect spot for sundowners. A chilled G&T in hand, I watch the sky shift into soft oranges and pinks, the silhouettes of acacias stark against the fading light. It’s a simple but perfect way to end the day, appreciating the vast beauty of the landscape around us.
Back at the lodge, dinner is a relaxed affair, filled with fresh, local ingredients and bold flavours, each meal is thoughtfully prepared by Chef Zoni and his team. The warm glow of lanterns, the hum of conversation, and the genuine hospitality of the andBeyond team make for a memorable evening.
Phinda Forest Lodge may have a fresh new look, but it still offers the same sense of tranquillity and connection to the wild. Where luxury and wilderness meet seamlessly, and where every moment feels like a privilege to experience.
Mpumalanga – Jock Safari Lodge
There is so much to love about Jock Safari Lodge. From the moment you arrive, the style and elegance is evident, as is the deep sense of place. Historic photographs depicting life in the 1880s—the time of the legendary Jock of the Bushveld—line the walls, with old ox wagons and artifacts from that era adding to the atmosphere.
Each enclosed thatched suite is a secluded retreat, with reed walls and surrounding trees offering complete privacy. Stepping outside onto the private deck reveals a luxurious claw-foot bath, plush loungers, and a plunge pool. But the true magic is the Sala—an outdoor daybed draped in netting, perfect for an afternoon nap or a night spent under the stars. Drifting off to the sounds of the African bush, serenaded by nightjars and giant eagle owls, with the occasional interruption of a barn owl’s shriek or the distant roar of a lion, is an experience like no other.
Awaiting in my suite is a welcoming treat—bubbly and snacks, a well-stocked minibar, and an inviting selection of books, including Percy FitzPatrick’s Jock of the Bushveld. At the main lodge, the stylish restaurant and bar area overlook the riverbed, offering a stunning setting for meals. Mornings start with a lavish continental spread followed by plated hot options, while light lunches and afternoon tea with cake bridge the gap before the evening game drive. Sundowners at Upstairs at Jim’s—named after the Zulu herdsman who cared for FitzPatrick’s cattle—set the stage for dinner, which alternates between a lively boma feast and an elegant fine-dining experience.
Of course, the highlight of any safari is the game viewing, and Jock Safari Lodge, located in Big 5 territory within the Kruger National Park, doesn’t disappoint. Our ranger ensures we are on the road early—a 4:15 am start means we have the wilderness to ourselves before the crowds arrived.
Our first morning is rewarded with an incredible sighting of spotted hyena with their cute cubs, we watch their playful antics before they slip quietly into the bush. A weary-looking male saunters down the road, our ranger says it’s likely that he has been preoccupied with a female in oestrus—nothing a good meal wouldn’t fix!
Elephants, from playful calves to resolute adults, move gracefully from tree to tree, feasting as they move, almost silently, through the bush. Zebra, impala, and wildebeest dot the grasslands, while rhinos and a couple of buffalo dagga boys make an appearance. Sunset G&Ts at a waterhole, to night drives revealing spotted eagle owls and darting scrub hares, and an eerie encounter with hyenas slipping into the shadows bring our afternoon game drive to an end.
On our final morning, the ultimate safari moment unfolded—an early sighting of a solitary leopard. We watch in awe as she stalks through the grass, her camouflage near perfect. A nearby warthog burrow catches her interest, but its inhabitants were still slumbering, and well out of reach. Later, a second sighting of this magnificent cat gave us an even closer look, a privilege few are afforded in the wild.
We end a perfect safari atop a rocky koppie in Jock’s private concession, Amarula coffee in hand I drink in the expansive views. There’s something truly special about a stay at Jock Safari Lodge—luxury, history, and an unforgettable connection with the wild.
Limpopo – Tintswalo Waterberg
Tucked away in the heart of the Welgevonden Game Reserve, Tintswalo Waterberg is a sanctuary where luxury and wilderness blend seamlessly. From the moment I arrive, welcomed by warm smiles and the scent of the bush, I know I am in for something special.
Tintswalo Waterberg is an intimate retreat, designed with an understated elegance that complements its surroundings, and as perfect for families as it is for lovers—a night on the new sleep-out deck, would do perfectly!
Earthy tones, natural textures, and expansive decks invite the outside in, ensuring that you remain connected to the wilderness beyond. My suite is a private escape, complete with a spacious deck overlooking the bushveld. Waking to a choir of birdsong and the soft morning light filtering through the trees feels like a privilege—one that never loses its appeal throughout my stay.
The lodge’s culinary experience is as much a highlight as the game drives. Every meal feels like a celebration, from fresh, wholesome breakfasts on the deck to long, leisurely dinners beneath the stars. But what truly sets Tintswalo apart is its people. The team, from our ever-attentive butler Melida (who makes a cracker homemade chilli sauce) to the ever-smiling barman, Fanual, and the passionate guiding team, head guide Foster, and his tracker, Mpho, all embody Tintswalo’s genuine hospitality.
Welgevonden is a wildlife-rich reserve, and Foster, with his uncanny ability to read the bush, ensures every drive is filled with unforgettable moments—whether tracking an elusive leopard or stopping to appreciate the iridescent flash of a lilac-breasted roller.
We watch elephants slurp water at a waterhole, spot a pride of lion ambling lazily across the grassland, and witness the quiet curiosity of a crash of rhino as they saunter closer to inspect our game viewing vehicle—each moment a reminder of the raw beauty of Africa. Yet, it is the smaller moments that linger just as strongly—the haunting call of a fish eagle, the scent of wild sage crushed beneath my feet, the hush that falls over the bush as the sun dips below the horizon.
Tintswalo Lodges is the vision of Ernest and Gaye Corbett, whose love for the African wilderness inspired them to create intimate, luxurious safari experiences. With Tintswalo Waterberg just a three- to four-hour drive from Gauteng, it serves as their own easy home away from home—one they are delighted to share with fellow nature lovers seeking relaxation in the bush.
As we head out on our final morning, a lone giraffe ambles past our vehicle, pausing briefly as if to say goodbye. It is a fitting farewell to a place that I could easily call my home away from home, a place where one feels comfortable enough to curl up on the soda for a nap, or head into the kitchen to find a snack.
Tintswalo Waterberg isn’t just a safari destination; it’s an experience woven with care, where every detail—every meal, every game drive, every warm greeting—comes together to create something truly special.
